By the Home Snooker HQ – The UK's Expert Guide to Buying & Owning a Home Snooker Table Team · Updated June 2026 · Independent, reader-supported

How to Re-Cloth a Snooker Table at Home: DIY Guide for UK Buyers

The baize on a snooker table wears down over time. Heavy use, spilled drinks, and general wear tear the fibres and dull the surface, affecting ball speed and accuracy. A full professional re-clothing can cost £400–£800, which is steep if your table has sentimental value but isn't competition-grade. Re-clothing at home is possible if you're patient and methodical—but it's not a quick weekend job.

Is DIY Re-Clothing Right for You?

Before you start, be honest about your situation. If your table cost over £2,000, is used frequently for matches, or has precision slate, hire a professional. They have industrial presses and the skill to stretch cloth perfectly with no bubbles or wrinkles. A poorly done re-cloth ruins playability and is nearly impossible to undo.

Home re-clothing works best for tables that are:

• Budget or mid-range (under £1,500 new)
• Used casually by friends and family
• Sentimental rather than competition-focused
• In decent structural condition (no warped rails, level slate)

If you mess up at home, you've only lost cloth and a weekend. Professional shops have seen every mistake and can usually fix a bad DIY attempt—though it costs more than doing it right first.

What You'll Need

Materials:

• Snooker cloth (usually sold in 2m × 1.5m rolls for home tables; standard weight is 10–12 oz)
• Contact cement or fabric adhesive (suitable for pool/snooker tables)
• A staple gun and 1/2-inch staples

Tools:

• Utility knife and fresh blades
• Wooden block and rubber mallet
• Staple remover or flat screwdriver
• Measuring tape
• Straightedge or steel ruler
• Spray bottle with water
• Vacuum cleaner

Optional but helpful:

• Heat gun (low setting, to help adhesive set)
• Small clamps
• Work gloves

Step-by-Step Process

Remove the old cloth. Start by carefully pulling away the old baize from the rails and cushions. You'll likely find it's glued and stapled. Use a staple remover to pull out staples, working slowly to avoid tearing the wood underneath. Once the cloth is free, use a plastic scraper to remove old adhesive residue. This is tedious but essential—lumpy adhesive will show through the new cloth and create dead spots where balls slow unpredictably.

Vacuum the entire playing surface and rails thoroughly. Any dust under the new cloth will catch your cue tip and ruin shots.

Measure and cut new cloth. Most home tables use approximately 2.4m × 1.8m of cloth when you account for overlap on the rails. Lay the new cloth across the table with 15–20cm overhang on each side. Use your straightedge to ensure it's square; snooker tables are unforgiving—even a 2-degree angle looks wrong once you're playing.

Secure the cloth. Apply a thin, even layer of contact cement to the slate (or the top surface of the bed) and smooth the cloth carefully from the centre outward, pressing firmly to eliminate air bubbles. Work in sections—adhesive sets fast, so you can't reposition once it's down.

Once the bed cloth is down, fold the overhanging cloth underneath the rail and staple it underneath, spacing staples 10cm apart. Pull the cloth taut but don't over-stretch—you want it snug, not straining. Trim excess cloth with a utility knife.

Cover the rails and cushions. Wrap cloth around the cushion rail, stapling underneath, then staple the top edge to the rail body. This is where many DIYers struggle; wrinkles at corners are common. Work slowly, pulling the cloth evenly and stapling alternate sides to keep tension balanced.

The corners (pockets) are fiddly. Fold the cloth neatly, wrap it around the pocket, and staple underneath. You'll likely need to trial-and-error this part.

Trim and finish. Once everything is stapled, trim excess cloth cleanly. Any rough edges will catch during play.

Common Problems

Bubbles and wrinkles. These happen when adhesive isn't applied evenly or you're working too fast. A heat gun on a low setting can help soften adhesive so you can gently re-stretch problem areas. Prevention is easier: use light, even pressure and work methodically.

Uneven tension. If one side is tighter than the other, balls will roll differently depending on direction. This is visible immediately when you play. Correct it before the adhesive fully cures by gently peeling and re-stretching.

Cloth fraying at edges. Use a lighter or seam sealer (carefully) to melt the edge slightly and prevent unravelling. Don't overseal or it'll be brittle.

Realistic Expectations

A home re-clothed table will play respectably if you're careful and take your time. It won't feel identical to professional work, and you might notice slight imperfections under bright light. For casual play and friendly games, this is fine. For league matches or coaching, the imperfections matter.

Budget 6–8 hours for your first attempt. Expect to redo at least one small section. If your table is already worn and uneven, re-clothing alone won't fix poor ball roll—that's a slate-levelling job, which requires professionals.

When to Call a Professional

If this sounds daunting, it is. Professional re-clothing costs more upfront, but the cloth lasts longer, sits perfectly, and plays true. For tables you use regularly or tables you plan to keep for decades, professional re-clothing is the better investment. A properly done job by a UK snooker specialist will last 5–7 years with normal use.

Home re-clothing is worthwhile only if you're willing to accept imperfection and you enjoy hands-on projects. It's a satisfying job when it goes well—but it's not a shortcut to professional results.